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Waking up the sleeping giant
He moved to London to be part of Mayfair's Tamarind restaurant.
Instead, Atul Kochhar, chef and director of Benares Restaurant &
Bar, became the only Indian chef to have a Michelin star to his name. He analyses
the future of India's hospitality. By Sayoni Bhaduri
Atul Kochhar
Chef and director
Benares Restaurant & Bar |
Atul Kochhar is gung-ho about India and the possibilities
waiting for it. He is even more excited about its hospitality industry, which
he thinks will blossom even further. "There is no stopping India. I believe
that the country and its hospitality sector will be at par with international
standards within the next eight to ten years. By 2020, it should have surpassed
others and become a leader," he predicts.
Focus India
This may come across as a very optimistic assumption but
Kochhar has his reasons. Which is why he would consider India (and China and
for the same reasons) as a location for undertaking commercial activities. "My
confidence in both these countries is equally good. Slowly but surely I would
like to step into the budget hotels business in India first," he says.
Yet, he understands that being part of this ever-evolving and large arena is
important, because it is the small things that make a big difference.
Having said that, he cautions that while India is well on
its growth chart, without infrastructure and without addressing the issues of
standardisation in supporting sectors, there are 50-50 chances of losing out
to China. "The Indian trait of adapting and fluency in English has kept
the country in the lead. But this may not be enough for the future," he
warns. The need to evolve remains.
Located in Berkeley Square, London, Benares was conceptualised
by Kochhar after he realised that his calling was in doing something more
enterprising. Run by the only Indian chef to have a Michelin star in his
name, this 140-cover restaurant has been inspired by the holy city of Benares
located on the banks of the river Ganges.
Apart from this, Kochhar also has under him Ananda in Ireland on similar
lines and has recently bought a vineyard with a tasting room at Wickham,
in Hampshire County, England. |
Way ahead
According to Kochhar, India has over time opened its door to international players.
But these tie-ups still need to develop and have a strong foundation. This is
a prerequisite to be able to cater to the needs and expectations of international
travellers. "Just comfort is not enough; there are other factors like craftsmanship,
build and product, attitudes and service that need to be of top quality,"
he says. One has to be able to deliver the goods; just creating hype around
something doesn't take the product very far, whether it is hospitality or tourism,
he adds.
What the ideal scenario for growth for a sector this dynamic is difficult to
pin down but there has to be a constant thirst to achieve perfection, believes
Kochhar. The government too needs to realise the true potential of the industry
and strategise give it some importance and priority rather than treating it
like a stepchild.
"Presently everyone seems to be on a high with the fast-performing economy,"
he says. The focus on longevity, sustainability and standardisation of the industry
and its supporting industries seems to be missing. "We will have to be
wary of such attitudes because in the long run it can backfire," he warns.
One area where he believes a lot can be achieved is also an area which is fast
becoming a problem, not just globally but also in India. "Having quality
talent pool is necessary to evolve and grow fast. They also need to support
local manufacturers and farmers, because in the end hoteliers need to get their
own backyards organised before thinking of taking on the world," says Kochhar.
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